Clifftop history and sculpted seaside wonders—exploring Lagos Portugal by foot, boat, and kayak

Following the Fisherman’s Trail walk, we headed to the Algarve—the beautiful southern coastline of Portugal—and enjoyed a five-night stay in the city of Lagos with its many fine ocean beaches and restaurants, as well as a scenic, walkable Old Town that gets a bit rowdy in the evening with partying tourists and expats. (Many expats, especially British, have chosen to settle in this part of Portugal.)

Ponta da Piedade: Prayers, Cliffs, and Grottoes

Our favorite spot was the Ponta da Piedade, variously translated as Point of Piety or Point of Mercy. This is the spot where women and children would go to gaze out at the ocean and pray for the safe return of their husbands and fathers on fishing expeditions. That, at least, is the story they tell, and a series of small religious shrines reflects the special significance of the spot.

Today, the main attraction of the point is a group of fabulously bizarre rock formations and beautiful grottoes carved into the sides of towering limestone cliffs. We explored the area from above on foot, and on the water in a small motorboat, on a sailboat and in kayaks.

The grottoes, or seaside caves, were formed by erosion over tens of millions of years, and range from giants with names like “Cathedral” and “Living Room,” to smaller spaces like “The Kitchen,” where fishermen once ate their lunch, and the tiny, dark “Love Room.” One arch formation looks remarkably like an elephant, and in fact, another arch formation also looks a lot like an elephant. If you squint a bit, you might also see a camel, or the Titanic about to hit an iceberg.

Touring the cliffs and grottoes

The first day we approached the point on foot, as the Fisherman’s Trail begins (or ends) in Lagos and skirts the dramatic cliff formations. An elaborate system of boardwalks, which stretches for miles, includes many spurs with incredible panoramic views, known as “miradouros” in Portuguese. You can hop off the boardwalk and hike on dirt trails out to the cliffs, peering down at seemingly bottomless canyons that drop to the ocean hundreds of feet below. (But do stay back from the edge.)

We hiked down several hundred steps, stopping to make way for tourists in both directions. At the bottom, a man was sitting in a plastic chair, offering motorboat tours through the caves for 25 euros per person. A woman stepping off a boat said it was the best 25 euros she had ever spent, so we signed up. (Cash is very handy in this part of Portugal — the boat drivers do not take card payments, and many restaurants and other service providers also prefer euros.)

The dispatcher blew a whistle, and a water taxi quickly motored over to pick us up off the rocks. Soon the driver was skillfully maneuvering his boat in and out of the caves, which were bustling with other motorboats and kayaks. These drivers know exactly what they are doing, and there is a well-established system for getting around the grottoes (stay on the right and move counterclockwise). The tour, about 45 minutes, took us all around the point and through several arches, offering views of several beautiful beaches, some of which were only accessible by kayak. This was a great opportunity to get photos of the grottoes and other formations.

The next day, we came back on a large boat operated by Discover Tours, one of many that leaves from the downtown marina multiple times per day. Our boat included 10 or 12 passengers. When we reached the Ponta da Piedade, the boat stopped and we climbed onto sit-on-top double kayaks, and then were lowered into the water via an extendable ramp at the boat’s stern. From there, our guide led us through many of the same caves we had toured the day before, but this time we were able to experience the rush of ocean waves pouring in and out of the caves. We recommend both trips, especially since the motorboat tour allowed us to take fantastic pictures. (On our kayak tour, we did not take our phones, for obvious reasons.)

After we finished touring the caves, the support boat was right there waiting for us, so we didn’t have to paddle back against the wind. We made our way back to the boat and were hauled up on the ramp. Then we stripped down and jumped into the ocean for a quick swim.

Relaxing in Lagos: Beaches, Sunset Cruises, and Resorts

Another highlight of our stay in Lagos was a sunset cruise aboard a sailboat that held about two dozen passengers. We were promised a “glass of prosecco,” but once we left the harbor, the crew handed us an entire bottle for two people. My partner doesn’t drink, so it was up to me to polish off the entire bottle! I was not quite up to the task, so I offered some sparkling wine to the fish before we docked.

We stayed at the lovely Belmar Spa and Resort, about 10 minutes by taxi from Old Town and a five-minute walk to the beautiful Porto de Mós beach, which features rental chairs and two beachside restaurants/bars.

If you don’t feel like hanging out at the beach, the resort has five pools including a heated indoor pool and whirlpool area, as well as a fitness center, restaurant, and several bars. It’s easy to get around town by Uber, with most rides costing about $5. There are several resorts in the area to choose from.

Lagos is easily accessible by bus or train. The nearest airport is about an hour away in Faro.