Love notes from Paris

We spent a few nights in Paris to acclimate ahead of traveling south into the Dolomites. We had been to Paris over 30 years ago, so there were a few things like the Louvre and Notre Dame that we could skip, allowing us to revisit a favorite—the Musée d’Orsay. Timed entry is the norm for all the major attractions throughout Europe, and the Musée d’Orsay is no exception.

I have a rule for museums: start at the top floor and work your way down. My logic is that if you get to a museum at opening or near closing the upper floors are less crowded, as people are either starting or finishing up on the lower levels.

The upper floors of the Musée d’Orsay are the most popular, as they host the most magnificent collection of the Impressionists. I recommend getting a timed entry for opening and heading straight to the top floor. On the lower levels, you’ll have more space to take in the art—don’t miss Whistler’s Mother tucked away in a smaller gallery.

Wondering around Paris and its surrounds

There are a couple of very old cemeteries in Paris. We spent a few hours walking through the Cimetière de Montmartre. There are so many fascinating traditions memorializing people and touring a cemetery allows you to step away from the throngs of tourists.

Rue Montorgueil is a delightful street for people watching while savoring charcuterie at a sidewalk café and sampling chocolates from a neighborhood shop. Stretching through the 1st and 2nd arrondissements of Paris, it’s lined with bakeries, chocolatiers, and bustling cafés. Walk it from end to end to plan your ideal itinerary—browse menus, note the spots that catch your eye, then circle back to enjoy each one at your leisure.

To get a taste of France outside of Paris, take the train to Versailles to see the Palace of Versailles—an impressive castle and gardens built by Louis XIII and later expanded by his son Louis XIV.

Buy the tour of the king’s private apartment to skip the lines and get a great introduction to the palace’s history before touring the museum galleries, including the Hall of Mirrors. In the gardens, listen for the music—it signals when the fountains are running.

Paris sunsets!

A sunset cruise on the Seine lets you enjoy the sunset on the way out and then see the city lit up on the way back—with the Eiffel Tower as the coup de grâce.

We got on an 8:30 boat in early September, and it was perfect timing. Book with Bateaux Mouches and plan to wait in line. (If you get to the front of the line for a boat that will miss sunset, just step out and wait for the next one.) Sit on the left side of the boat to get the best view of the Eiffel Tower lit up.

Another great sunset experience is to head up to the Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre where locals gather to listen to buskers and drink beer while watching the sunset over the city. If you plan to go into the church, shorts and hats (and probably beer) are not allowed.

After the sunset, walk down to the Montmartre neighborhood, grab dinner, and enjoy Lebanese ice cream for dessert—very interesting flavors rolled in crushed pistachio. I had the orange blossom.

Getting around Paris

The buses and metro are the best way to get around the city. The best app to use is the Bonjour RATP where you can purchase a ticket that is good on both the bus and metro. This app also includes an interactive transportation map, so you can plan your itinerary and see when the bus or train is scheduled.

iPhone users can use Apple Pay and send tickets to the Apple Wallet, which you scan when you ride. You can also load several tickets into your Wallet in advance.

One thing to keep in mind, having a car in Paris is very expensive, which means that there are bikes and scooters—everywhere. Pay close attention to the green walking signs and if you have to cross a bike lane, look both ways—twice!

Also, the first Sunday of the month is car free in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Arrondissements, which makes seeing attractions less stressful, but the closures also impact bus routes. Our bus stopped short of our train station and we had to grab a cab, which are allowed on a restrictive basis.

Trippin' with the most fun old folks